At Mallorca's eastern tip, the closest point to Menorca, Capdepera is a hilltop village dominated by one of the island's largest medieval castles. Below it, Cala Rajada is its lively coastal hub and one of the few still-working fishing ports on Mallorca.
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The first thing you see of Capdepera is its castle. The Castell de Capdepera is a large 14th-century fortified enclosure (about 8,000 m²) that King Jaume II had built on a 159-metre hill; from its wall-walk the views take in the town, the coast and, on clear days, Menorca. Inside are a Gothic church and the Museu de la Llata, devoted to the traditional dwarf-palm craft. It's the best place to start making sense of the area.
Down at the sea, Cala Rajada keeps a working fishing port, with its fish market and a promenade of fresh-fish restaurants towards Son Moll. Nearby lie two of the north-east's most renowned beaches: Cala Agulla, a large sandy stretch with pine woods and coastal walks, and Cala Mesquida, protected by dunes. Above the port, the gardens of the Casa March (Sa Torre Cega) hold a notable collection of open-air sculpture, visitable by guided tour and reservation only. And to see it all from the water, you can head out by kayak around the coves or climb to the Far de Capdepera, the 1861 lighthouse high above the coast.
Capdepera is the heartland of llatra, the dwarf-palm weaving craft that was the village's trade until tourism arrived. Its great event is the Mercat Medieval, on the third weekend of May: the castle and old town transform into a medieval fortress with artisan stalls, falconry, parades and llatra demonstrations. To get here, a car is most practical (the TIB bus 411 links Palma with Capdepera and Cala Rajada); in summer, count on the paid car park at Cala Agulla. Capdepera's market is on Wednesdays and Cala Rajada's on Saturdays; and for the Sa Torre Cega gardens, book ahead.
